in February
When conditions allow (see January), spike or aerate any consistently wet areas on the lawn and add some horticultural sharp sand. Brush off worm casts on dry days. Now might also be a good time to make sure that your mower is serviced, the blades sharpened and ready to go when mowing starts again. Towards the end of the month if the lawn surface is dry, run the mower over the lawn and "top" it. Setting the cutting height at 1 inch (25mm) however, don't cut if a frost is forecast in the following days.
in March
Start to mow your lawn regularly at a height of 1 inch (25mm) when the surface is dry. If your lawn contains finer grasses, reduce the height to 15mm - 20mm. Never cut your lawn too short - doing this will remove most of the grass leaf which convert sunlight into essential food, especially at these low light times of the year, Cut the grass too short and you cut its lifeline. Always keep the blades of the mower sharp as the tips of the grass will turn brown if it is not cut cleanly. Remove your cuttings, especially at this time of year, as cuttings left on the lawn will cause thatch to build up.
Thatch is one of the most common lawn problems and is a continual build up of dead and decaying vegetation that acts like a barrier between the surface and the all important root area of the grass plant. If you notice thatch, you should rake it out. For ease, you can hire a mechanical scarifier but do make sure you run the mower over the lawn afterward - on a high setting to collect the debris.
Apply a moss killer if needed - note: moss should be killed off before scarifying. After scarifying it is an ideal time to over sow your lawn with fresh grass seed.
in April
You should now be increasing the frequency of your mowing according to the weather conditions and the grass growth. Feed your lawn with a spring/summer fertiliser that is high in nitrogen or with a combined Weed and Feed product. Sometimes these weed and feed products contain moss killers but we would recommend that you kill and remove the moss as a separate action, before scarifying. Re-seed any worn or bare patches.
in May
Continue with regular mowing as this will encourage a more dense and thicker grass. Consider watering in prolonged dry spells if your water company allows this. Fertilising with a high nitrogen feed can still be carried out until the end of July at six to eight week intervals.
in June
Continue mowing regularly to a height of about 1 inch (25mm) Water your lawn if it needs it.
in July and August
Continue mowing and watering.
in September
It's time to fertilise again but this time with an autumn/winter product also the summer may have left lawns in a poor state, so now is a good time to reseed bare patches or worn areas. Use an autumn pre-seeding fertiliser and re-seed to repair the damage. Later in the month consider spiking your lawn to open up the soil and improve drainage. This will help stop the lawn becoming waterlogged during the winter. Collect fallen leaves. Continue to mow as needed, raising the blades slightly
in October
Continue to cut your lawn down to 1 inch (25mm) on warm and dry days. Clear fallen leaves as if left they will encourage worm activity and can cause fungal damage and bare patches if left. (Put the leaves on the compost heap or in sacks, punctured with a fork. They will rot down to provide leaf mould.
in November
If the weather is mild a cut may be necessary but don't mow in very wet or frosty weather. Apply autumn fertiliser. Collect leaves for the compost heap or rot for leaf mould.
in December
Complete leaf clearance. Clean and overhaul mowers, clean, oil and sharpen other tools where necessary. Dig over any areas that you want to seed in the spring. | 
in January